Captain MAGpie's Conversion Corner: Land Raider Corvus

Captain MAGpie's "Corvus" pattern Land Raider Crusader!

A Games Workshop Land Raider Conversion

Know what I am thinking... a spoiler, we need a spoiler.

So there I was, wondering what can be done with a Land Raider. I mean, this is probably one of the most iconic symbols of Imperial might and Marine power. But building anything straight out of the box is just... well, its not me.

So how to make this thing different, still maintaining its ionic identity, and make it rule wise, basically perfectly legal.

Classy. Suttle. Minimal work... YES!

So, armed with a sharp knife and inspired by some Toyota conversion mastery, I plotted.

The tutorial

First, what you will need.

(1) The measurements, (2) what you will need, and (3) some imagination on how to "Liven up" the build once done.

1) What you will need for: the measurements

There is no template for this, as well, all you need is 2 rectangles. I recommend using 1mm thickness for both.

Front angles plate (1mm): 46mm x 49mm
Roof plate (1mm): 52mm x 32.5mm
Filler Plate (3mm): 48mm x 36mm

Angled Plate

Roof Plate

I did have to cut the second one slightly more as it was a tiny bit to big once I test-fitted it.

Adding the slots for the front door hinges

2) What you will need

We got everything you need...

You will need:

1 x Games Workshop Land Raider (I used the Land Raider Crusader Variant.)
1mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet
2mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet
0.75mm x 4.8mm Styrene strip (Optional. You can cut these pieces from the sheet as well. Just easier with a strip)
A VERY sharp hobby knife
A fine-point marker
Metal Ruler
Glue (I'll level with you. Use an extra thin solvent type glue here. It just makes life so much simpler. I use Tamiya Extra Thin, and believe me, you will have a hard time convincing me to use anything else. I almost feel that I should be wearing welding goggles when I use this stuff with ABS/Styrene.)
Sharp Cutters
Files and sanding paper (Fine)
Patience and a first aid kit... (just trust me -_- )

Step 1 - Cut
Apart from the obvious rectangles, this conversion requires some permanent structural changes to the model. Don't do this if you are not confidant with conversions yet.

Cutting cutting cutting... And band-aid.... I NEED HEALING!

Cut away the original door casing and jab. File smooth and putty up any holes. If you plan to glue it shut, you don't have to worry about that. For this, you can use a variety of tools. I used my hobby cutter and would probably do that gain.

Tools of the trade

Cut away the material.

As you can see, its just a rough cut. Cut finer in stages to prevent damage.

Just about done here.

Step 2 - Modify the door

Sand, fill holes, sand and done.

The bottom door needed to be modified for this conversion. You need to remove 4mm of material from the middle. Make sure you cut straight!

Cut the material away from the middle, as, well, you will need the top and bottom of the door to... well, work.

Step 3 - Glue it

Now just glue together and hope for the best...

Step 4 - Door Casings, Jabs and holes
Apart from being a good name for a bad book (or a DIY book), the step title refers to the tree things you will need to do to make the new resting positions for the modified and re-positioned doors.

The casing refers to the part the door with sit in, the jab, is the bit the stops the door from going further than its intended closing position. To make that, use the original upper door, and measure out where you want to place it, and at which angle. I made my door workable, but if you choose to glue it shut, don't worry too much about the exact placements of the holes etc.

As for measurements. Well, depending on the angle you want, and the amount you may have "accidentally" cut away from the bottom door, this could vary. I suggest get out a marker, and test fit to get the right measurements for your specific build.

Mine was as follows:

Upper Door Casing: 20mm
Lower Door Casing: 26mm
New upper door hole placement: Directly in line with the end of the upper door casing.

Angle measure, filed away and glued at the right angle

Test fitted for efect

Step 5 - Make it work (Optional)

Ok,I wanted to make my doors functional, so made the mod for it. This is completely optional, but here is how I did it.

Firstly, I cut material away from the track runner. In the end, this was not needed. Well, tracks will hide it, so I was not worried.

I used the original crank which I made a lot smaller for the upper door. Because it so much closer to the body, it needed to be smaller.

Then, I simply added to leavers parallel to each other on both cranks. A simple connection rod later, and it was done.

Step 6 - Glue the plates into position

The pictures I took of the blank plates attached were terrible. No idea what I did wrong, but they are terribly blurry. But lucky I have some progress pics of the plates attached, and the decorative pieced already in place.

I will do this conversion again and take better pictures.

Also, in the pictures the top "filler" plate is attached already. It is done to level the roof of the Land Raider. I also added an armoured plate to the front to give it more character.

Plating in place

Razorback roof hatch scavenged to make the turret mount

NOTE: If you want the doors open, AND if you want to have the interior all painted, I suggest doing that before you glue the model shut, but after you have some of the panelling in place.