Captain MAGpie's Conversion Corner: Cyclops

Captain MAGpie's Cyclops Pike-Nosed Predator!

A Games Workshop "Cyclops" Predator Conversion

Two grumpy tanks

This wasn't a full blow project, rather its just a new version of an old one. The idea of the IS3 was where the original Piken_nose came from, but what I changed was to off-set the driver like the standard Rhino/Predator has. Although this was ok, I did want to see what it would like with a driver in the middle, exactly like the IS tanks.


IS3

So, with a long lost STC in hand, a cutting torch in the other, and some other random spare parts, the boys of the Snow Crows Space Marine Chapter went to a friendly local forgeworld engineering firm (Same ones the Magpie's use. Well recommended. 4.8 Star rating on Gumtree) and commissioned another prototype for trails. In addition to already existing designs, the third was created with a steeper slope, and a center sitting driver.

The tutorial

First, what you will need.

The list will be in 3, (1) the template, then (2) what you will need for both styles of nose plate, and (3) the last bit is for the plate with the thick glacis plate. It will also be the one I make in the tutorial.

1) What you will need for: the template

STC - Pike-Nose Rhino Front Plate

Upper images for tracing onto the plasticard, the bottom

ones are for paper-craft fitting before you start cutting. (LARGE SIZE)

I recommend printing the template on cardboard, scaling it so that the Yellow reference block is 25mm x 25mm (1 inch x 1 inch) when printed out, then cutting the shapes out with a pair of scissors and transferring the shapes to your plasticard with a fine-point marker. The shapes are labeled, "No Plate" , "Plate", and "Cyclops" for the various designs. The below tutorial is specifically for the "Plate" version but its basically the same for all 3.

Additionally, cut the bottom versions out and make a paper-craft fit first, just to test for scaling.

You will need:

The Template (Provided above)
Cardboard
Printer (Or a ruler and a lot of time)
Fine-Point marker

2) What you will need for: both types

We got everything you need...

You will need:

1 x Rhino chassis by Games Workshop (fits any Rhino derived vehicle)
0.5mm flat Styrene Platsticard sheet
1 or 1.5mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet (Depending on which one you build)
3mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet (Depending on which one you build)
0.75mm x 4.8mm Styrene strip (Optional. You can cut these pieces from the sheet as well. Just easier with a strip)
A VERY sharp hobby knife
A fine-point marker
Metal Ruler
Glue (I'll level with you. Use an extra thin solvent type glue here. It just makes life so much simpler. I use Tamiya Extra Thin, and believe me, you will have a hard time convincing me to use anything else. I almost feel that I should be wearing welding goggles when I use this stuff with ABS/Styrene.)
Sharp Cutters
Files and sanding paper (Fine)
Patience and a first aid kit... (just trust me -_- )

Glacis Plate left, smooth style right

3) What you will need for: the glacis plate

Glasis Plate style

For the Style with the Thick Lower Glacis plate, you will need in addition to everything above, a 3mm thick plasticard sheet or rod. I used a rod and just glue tree pieces together to achieve the desired breadth, but you can cut from a sheet as well. I just did not have one.

You will need:

3mm Styrene Plasticard rod or flat sheet

Right, so lets get into it

Step 1 - Template

Print the template onto cardboard and cut it out with scissors or a knife. I don't judge.

Step 2 - Transfer and cut

Transfer the shapes to your plasticard using a fine-point marker,

Marking the template on the plasticard

and cut them out using a knife. This time I will judge if you still have the scissors with you.

Yip, I did that for a reason

NOTE: Be sure to cut the 0.5mm pieces and the 1mm pieces on the corresponding plasti-sheets. The picture just shows the 0.5mm pieces at this point and the lower plate cleverly cropped partially out. Its cause I goofed. Don't judge.

Step 3 - Test fit!

Seriously, when you cutting shapes yourself, you need to do this. I goof all the time, so take my word for it. Just use some tape and test fit it. Slightly to big can be filed, too small is an issue. Not the end of the world, but needs to be fixed.

Make sure.

Pictured below, you can see I tested both styles. If its not fitting perfectly, that's fine. Still needs to be glued and shaped. As long as it resembles what you are planning without needing to be forced into a position, you are golden.

Test fit 101: TAPE!

Note the small gap right at the corner where the
bottom, front and rhino track plate meet?
We will fix that later.


Dude, what happened to your face? You should see the other guy...

Step 4 - Glue it

This is fairly easy. I start with the bottom plate (not the thick one, the thin 0.5mm one) and just lay it down flat. Then I stand the 2 front plate up against it, holding them together with tape. Now I just touch the areas I need to weld with my glue, and due to the nature of the extra thin glue I use, it just flows in and welds together. It cures in about 30 seconds to pretty damn solid state... The glue does dissolves paint though (solvent after all) and you can see a lot of my cutting board's colours on the glued shapes. -_- This is fine. Sanding paper and paint solves this.

Step 5 - Test fit... again

When everything is cured, test fit again. Just to be sure.

Test-fit satisfaction

Step 6 - Sides

Ok, this is again an option. You can do the plate without this step by slightly reducing the length of the bottom plate, thereby reducing the front-plate angle or slope. This will then ensure the plate drops low enough to prevent opening on the sides (like picture 1 and 2 in step 4 shows), specifically where the plate protrude form the front, and over the indents over the tracks. I however wanted the plate to be at the exact (approximate) angle of the slope on the tracks. This meant that there would be gaps.

To solve this, use the 0.75mm x 4.8mm strip (can be thinner as well, really. Its just to close a gap) and measure it to fit snugly in the angle between the front-plate and the bottom glacis. Also, you will need to cut it at an angle to fit in between the rhino body. No need for exact here. Just filling gaps.

Strip cut to fit in the angle between the front
and bottom plate, and at an angle to fit
into the gap between the rhino body and
nose-plate.

Strips in place.

No gaps and a perfect slope. Just how I like it.

Once the glue is cured, just smooth it out with sanding paper or a file and you are golden.

Step 7 - View ports

A simple, but easy to screw up step. Cutting the view-ports.
Firstly, just mark on of the armour plates out. Just one for now. I use the following measurement, but you can adjust to taste:

3mm from middle and top.
4mm from track side
7mm drop on middle side
3mm drop on track side

Marking the view-port.

Now cut. Take your time and work carefully. Several shallow cuts gets you there and keeps you out of the emergency room.

Port cut out.

File to make sure you have all the sides nice and straight.

Flipped over, filed and smoothed. Looking good.

Flip it over and mark the other panel using the cut plate as a template.

Use the first cut as a template for the second.

Cut and smooth out the second one. I have found that the flip sides tend to look better, so I literally flip both over, and that becomes my front sides.

And done. View-ports cut.

Step 8 - Glue the plates into position
Yeah, its that simple. Just glue the plates into possession. (I have already drilled holes for the rivets. This is to taste and method. I find this method easiest for me.)

Why so serious?

Ready to be riveted.

NOTE: I glued the top triangular plate into place with the face test-fitted on the rhino. I moved it all the way back to the roof plate on the rhino to make the transition smoother and add some nice angles to that area.

Drops right into place. Perfect.
I need coffee...

Step 9 - Make the Port-glare covers

I provided a template for the roof of the glare covers, but this is largely based on the size and shape of your view ports, and the slope of your front plate. Use the template as a basis for the design, but make sure it fits your specific plate before gluing it.

To make it easier for myself, I cut the covers from a single piece already at the right angle.

Once you got those cover in place, you are done. Paint that thing now!

Now, as mentioned, the tutorial is for the Plate version specifically, but it is pretty much the same thing for all 3 version. The view-port I made with an additional lair of 1mm card and then the glare covers over that.