Captain MAGpie's Angry Marines!
The DeepStrike Rhino Launcher!
A Rage Fuelled... Um... Thing.
A Games Workshop Angry Marines Conversion
So what do you get if you take these 3 things, and throw them into a blender?
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If you answered insanity... I think you are close.
Right... so, part tutorial, part raving madness, part, bad spelling and grammar, I am pleased to introduce to you, the DeepStrike Rhino Launcher!
+
+
If you answered insanity... I think you are close.
Right... so, part tutorial, part raving madness, part, bad spelling and grammar, I am pleased to introduce to you, the DeepStrike Rhino Launcher!
The tutorial
First, what you will need.
The list will be in 2 parts: (1) the templates, and (2) what you will need for all the armour and a link to the pike nose build (amended with the latest design).
The list will be in 2 parts: (1) the templates, and (2) what you will need for all the armour and a link to the pike nose build (amended with the latest design).
1) What you will need for: the template(s)
I recommend printing the template on cardboard, scaling it so that the yellow key block is 25mm x 25mm (1 inch x 1 inch) when printed out, then cutting the shapes out with a pair of scissors and transferring the shapes to your plasticard with a fine-point marker.
Additionally, cut and make a paper-craft test-fits first before committing anything to the styrene. Cutting too big isn't really a problem usually, but too small and you will have a lot of waste.
You will need:
- The Template (Provided above)
- Cardboard
- Printer (Or a ruler and a lot of time)
- Fine-Point marker
I recommend printing the template on cardboard, scaling it so that the yellow key block is 25mm x 25mm (1 inch x 1 inch) when printed out, then cutting the shapes out with a pair of scissors and transferring the shapes to your plasticard with a fine-point marker.
Additionally, cut and make a paper-craft test-fits first before committing anything to the styrene. Cutting too big isn't really a problem usually, but too small and you will have a lot of waste.
You will need:
- The Template (Provided above)
- Cardboard
- Printer (Or a ruler and a lot of time)
- Fine-Point marker
2) What you will need for: the build
We got everything you need...
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| We got everything you need... |
Parts
So the basic parts I used in this kit-bash are the following:
- 1 x Rhino kit from Games Workshop
- 1 x Land Raider kit from Games Workshop
- Spare engines and wings from a Stormhawk Interceptor kit from Games Workshop kit. Oh and a tail. Basically left overs if you build the Stormtalon, which I did on a different project
- 0.5mm flat Styrene Platsticard sheet
- 1mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet
- 1.5mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet
- 3mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet
- Styrene rods: 5 and 6 mm
- Styrene I-Beams (Details listed bellow)
- Putty such as Green Stuff or Milliput (Optional, but I advise using this. So much easier to hide bloopers)
- A VERY sharp hobby knife
- Scribing tool. (Optional, but very useful for thick cutting. I use the Tamiya scriber, and its pretty good.)
- A fine-point marker
- Metal Ruler
- Glue (I'll level with you. Use an extra thin solvent type glue here. It just makes life so much simpler. I use Tamiya Extra Thin, and believe me, you will have a hard time convincing me to use anything else. I almost feel that I should be wearing welding goggles when I use this stuff with ABS/Styrene.)
- Sharp Cutters
- Files and sanding paper (Fine)
- Patience and a first aid kit... (just trust me -_- )
- Insanity. Critical ingredient.
So the basic parts I used in this kit-bash are the following:
- 1 x Rhino kit from Games Workshop
- 1 x Land Raider kit from Games Workshop
- Spare engines and wings from a Stormhawk Interceptor kit from Games Workshop kit. Oh and a tail. Basically left overs if you build the Stormtalon, which I did on a different project
- 0.5mm flat Styrene Platsticard sheet
- 1mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet
- 1.5mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet
- 3mm flat Styrene Plasticard sheet
- Styrene rods: 5 and 6 mm
- Styrene I-Beams (Details listed bellow)
- Putty such as Green Stuff or Milliput (Optional, but I advise using this. So much easier to hide bloopers)
- A VERY sharp hobby knife
- Scribing tool. (Optional, but very useful for thick cutting. I use the Tamiya scriber, and its pretty good.)
- A fine-point marker
- Metal Ruler
- Glue (I'll level with you. Use an extra thin solvent type glue here. It just makes life so much simpler. I use Tamiya Extra Thin, and believe me, you will have a hard time convincing me to use anything else. I almost feel that I should be wearing welding goggles when I use this stuff with ABS/Styrene.)
- Sharp Cutters
- Files and sanding paper (Fine)
- Patience and a first aid kit... (just trust me -_- )
- Insanity. Critical ingredient.
3) Right, so lets get into it
Step 1 - Template
Print the template onto cardboard and cut it out with scissors or a knife. Not a butter knife. Use the hobby knife I told you about earlier. In fact, just go get scissors...
Print the template onto cardboard and cut it out with scissors or a knife. Not a butter knife. Use the hobby knife I told you about earlier. In fact, just go get scissors...
Step 2 - Transfer and cut
Transfer the shapes to your plasticard using a fine-point marker and cut them out using a knife. This time I will judge if you still have the scissors with you.
Transfer the shapes to your plasticard using a fine-point marker, and cut them out using a scribing tool or a very sharp knife.
Important! Remember to cut the green parts from 0.5mm sheet and the blue parts from 1mm or thicker, the orangy parts, 1.5mm, and the brown parts 3mm.
Step 3 - Get the Rhino done (Tutorial coming soon!)
Ok, so for the tutorial on that, (will be coming very soon!). As I did this in 2 phases, I did it in 2 separate tutorials.
And like magic, the RhinoRocket is built!
Step 4 - Build the Deck
Right, so now you need to start cutting all them pieces. I decided to build the deck onto a Land Raider. I was contemplating making a new roof for the Raider to hold the deck manoeuvring mechanism, but decided against that to go with a much simpler flat deck (for the deck) to sit on and over the roof area of the Land Raider.
This was quite simple. Four I-Beam styrene rods;
- 2 x cut from 10mm wide, 45mm long
- 2 x cut from 5mm wide, 72mm long
I glued the long thinner ones to the top of the wider, shorter ones. I had to cut a small gap out of the top of each. I wanted the deck to lie flush on all 4 beams.
I then cut the deck from 2 mm card. I wanted it to seem thick and solid. Its just a square, slightly larger than the beams at 45mm x 77mm.
Attached that if you please. Thanks.
Now next the rotation bit. For the bottom piece, I went with a 3mm card wheel, 20mm radius (40mm diameter.)
The lines were scribed in with a scribing tool, and then small pieces of card just randomly glued to the top. Texture yo.
Right, next the rotation bit where the deck manoeuvring mechanism (I really need a better name for this thing... DMM... yeah, Ill go with DMM) will sit on. This was done with 2 x 1.5mm x 18.5mm radius (37mm diameter) wheels. In one I cut gaps, the other I left round. Glue this to each other, smooth and ensure they are flush, and file a 45 degree angle to the top, looks killer.
Attach and smooth.
Killa!
Right, now just stick a stick in dat hole. Cool, it rotates :D
Step 5 - DMM (Deck Manoeuvring Mechanism)
Right, by now, I don't have to tell you this, but I will anyway. Cause, thats just what I do.
Trace that shit, then cut it out. NOW AGAIN, guys seriously, if you plan to use thick card, get a scribing tool. You will thank me. Your fingers will thank me. Your local ER will thank me.
Just...
Oh for frack sakes, ill do it:
Just do it man.
Right, so liberate those those shapes and file smooth.
I find cutting square and going in with a file to round a lot easier than cutting round to begin with.
And just keep going. Follow the instruction on the template. Oh wait, there isn't any.
Ok, glue the pieces together in roughly the same order as the template is laid out... and if it doesn't look like this, you gone done it wrong:
Those are pieces of paper... yeah, IE, the template. Don't glue those together... well, ok, I guess you can, but don't try and get a Rhino to stay on top of it.
File smooth.
And again, if it doesn't look like this, you screwed up man. Just accept it already.
Not the curve? Its not technically necessary, but it does look cool.
Right, attach the spacers.
But Yoda, what are the spacers for?
It will become apparent soon. I promise.
Right, we are ready for the... defaq are these things called anyway? Ill go with the bits-that-go-on-the-side-where-the-other-bits-stick-through.
So anyhow, glue bottom bits-that-go-on-the-side-where-the-other-bits-stick-through onto the spacers. Make sure they are flush with the bottom and rear of the spacer. Should be slightly, ever so slightly longer than the total design.
DON'T glue the top the-bits-that-go-on-the-side-where-the-other-bits-stick-through to anything yet!
Right, now drill em holes. I just drilled straight though both top and bottom one side to the other. If you did not gone goof with the cutting, should work out just fine.
If not...
Son, what did I beg you about a scribing tool?
NO! NO GLUE!
Right, now we can start working with those upper the-bits-that-go-on-the-side-where-the-other-bits-stick-through. Here, I kinda winged it and stop measuring.
Scale this for whatever it is you want to build. If it isn't a bridge laying deck, then make it smaller. I am thinking rocket launcher. Unless, of course, its an ICBM... cause yeah, then go big.
So yeah, I just kept on winging it. I was still debating what the actual deck would look like, but I knew how wide it needed to be. I needed a rhino to sit on it. So that was my measurement.
Incidentally, that is:
- Deck: 1mm card, 40mm x 35mm
- Crossbeams: I-Beam 10mm wide x 70mm long
And the glamour view.
Step 6 - The Deck
Right, so the Deck.
Ok this is a big wing. I just went with what felt right. I will list the materials I used and the pics as I assembled.
- Deck support beams: 2 x 6mm x 3mm x 190mm long
- Crossbeams: 3mm I-beam, cut to size
- Deck: 13mm I-Beam x 250mm long
- Piston sleeve: 6mm hollow styrene tube
- Piston: 5mm hollow styrene tube
As you can see here, its upside down.
Pistons are ded-simple to make. Literally just 2 rods inside one-another.
Inside one-another...
Anyone. Just 2 rods. 1 is 5mm, the other 6mm.
Here is a nice group photo of the party about to embark on their epic adventure. Little did they know, they would never be the same again!
The piston sleeves gets attached to the lug... OMG!!! THAT'S what the bits-that-go-on-the-side-where-the-other-bits-stick-through are called. LUGS!
Anyhow, sleeves attach to the lugs.
To mount the pistons to the top I built another deck to attach the LUGS to :D Feels good man.
And the good side.
And the glamour pose.
Step 7: Finish it!
Yeah, thats really it. No biggy on this one.
And now! The moment you have all been waiting for!
The DeepStrike Rhino Launcher!
A VERY Special thanks to Nathan Szerdy for the use of his AMAZING art for the interior of both these vehicles. Please check out his Deviant Page is at https://www.deviantart.com/nszerdy/about and follow him on instagram on #nathanszerdy
As always, hope you enjoyed and have fun!
Transfer the shapes to your plasticard using a fine-point marker and cut them out using a knife. This time I will judge if you still have the scissors with you.
Important! Remember to cut the green parts from 0.5mm sheet and the blue parts from 1mm or thicker, the orangy parts, 1.5mm, and the brown parts 3mm.
 |
| Transfer the shapes to your plasticard using a fine-point marker, and cut them out using a scribing tool or a very sharp knife. |
Step 3 - Get the Rhino done (Tutorial coming soon!)
Ok, so for the tutorial on that, (will be coming very soon!). As I did this in 2 phases, I did it in 2 separate tutorials. |
| And like magic, the RhinoRocket is built! |
Step 4 - Build the Deck
Right, so now you need to start cutting all them pieces. I decided to build the deck onto a Land Raider. I was contemplating making a new roof for the Raider to hold the deck manoeuvring mechanism, but decided against that to go with a much simpler flat deck (for the deck) to sit on and over the roof area of the Land Raider.This was quite simple. Four I-Beam styrene rods;
- 2 x cut from 10mm wide, 45mm long
- 2 x cut from 5mm wide, 72mm long
I glued the long thinner ones to the top of the wider, shorter ones. I had to cut a small gap out of the top of each. I wanted the deck to lie flush on all 4 beams.
I then cut the deck from 2 mm card. I wanted it to seem thick and solid. Its just a square, slightly larger than the beams at 45mm x 77mm.
Attached that if you please. Thanks.
Now next the rotation bit. For the bottom piece, I went with a 3mm card wheel, 20mm radius (40mm diameter.)
The lines were scribed in with a scribing tool, and then small pieces of card just randomly glued to the top. Texture yo.
Right, next the rotation bit where the deck manoeuvring mechanism (I really need a better name for this thing... DMM... yeah, Ill go with DMM) will sit on. This was done with 2 x 1.5mm x 18.5mm radius (37mm diameter) wheels. In one I cut gaps, the other I left round. Glue this to each other, smooth and ensure they are flush, and file a 45 degree angle to the top, looks killer.
Attach and smooth.
Killa!
Right, now just stick a stick in dat hole. Cool, it rotates :D
Step 5 - DMM (Deck Manoeuvring Mechanism)
Right, by now, I don't have to tell you this, but I will anyway. Cause, thats just what I do.
Trace that shit, then cut it out. NOW AGAIN, guys seriously, if you plan to use thick card, get a scribing tool. You will thank me. Your fingers will thank me. Your local ER will thank me.
Just...
Oh for frack sakes, ill do it:
Just do it man.
Right, so liberate those those shapes and file smooth.
I find cutting square and going in with a file to round a lot easier than cutting round to begin with.
And just keep going. Follow the instruction on the template. Oh wait, there isn't any.
Ok, glue the pieces together in roughly the same order as the template is laid out... and if it doesn't look like this, you gone done it wrong:
 |
| Those are pieces of paper... yeah, IE, the template. Don't glue those together... well, ok, I guess you can, but don't try and get a Rhino to stay on top of it. |
File smooth.
And again, if it doesn't look like this, you screwed up man. Just accept it already.
 |
| Not the curve? Its not technically necessary, but it does look cool. |
Right, attach the spacers.
But Yoda, what are the spacers for?
It will become apparent soon. I promise.
Right, we are ready for the... defaq are these things called anyway? Ill go with the bits-that-go-on-the-side-where-the-other-bits-stick-through.
So anyhow, glue bottom bits-that-go-on-the-side-where-the-other-bits-stick-through onto the spacers. Make sure they are flush with the bottom and rear of the spacer. Should be slightly, ever so slightly longer than the total design.
DON'T glue the top the-bits-that-go-on-the-side-where-the-other-bits-stick-through to anything yet!
Right, now drill em holes. I just drilled straight though both top and bottom one side to the other. If you did not gone goof with the cutting, should work out just fine.
If not...
Son, what did I beg you about a scribing tool?
NO! NO GLUE!
Right, now we can start working with those upper the-bits-that-go-on-the-side-where-the-other-bits-stick-through. Here, I kinda winged it and stop measuring.
Scale this for whatever it is you want to build. If it isn't a bridge laying deck, then make it smaller. I am thinking rocket launcher. Unless, of course, its an ICBM... cause yeah, then go big.
So yeah, I just kept on winging it. I was still debating what the actual deck would look like, but I knew how wide it needed to be. I needed a rhino to sit on it. So that was my measurement.
Incidentally, that is:
- Deck: 1mm card, 40mm x 35mm
- Crossbeams: I-Beam 10mm wide x 70mm long
And the glamour view.
Step 6 - The Deck
Right, so the Deck.
Ok this is a big wing. I just went with what felt right. I will list the materials I used and the pics as I assembled.
- Deck support beams: 2 x 6mm x 3mm x 190mm long
- Crossbeams: 3mm I-beam, cut to size
- Deck: 13mm I-Beam x 250mm long
- Piston sleeve: 6mm hollow styrene tube
- Piston: 5mm hollow styrene tube
As you can see here, its upside down.
Pistons are ded-simple to make. Literally just 2 rods inside one-another.
 |
| Inside one-another... |
Here is a nice group photo of the party about to embark on their epic adventure. Little did they know, they would never be the same again!
Anyhow, sleeves attach to the lugs.
To mount the pistons to the top I built another deck to attach the LUGS to :D Feels good man.
And the good side.
And the glamour pose.
Step 7: Finish it!
Yeah, thats really it. No biggy on this one.
And now! The moment you have all been waiting for!
The DeepStrike Rhino Launcher!
A VERY Special thanks to Nathan Szerdy for the use of his AMAZING art for the interior of both these vehicles. Please check out his Deviant Page is at https://www.deviantart.com/nszerdy/about and follow him on instagram on #nathanszerdy
As always, hope you enjoyed and have fun!
Captain MAGpie,
Styrene Addict
Eagerly awaiting the arrival of the pike-hull tutorial.
ReplyDeleteHolly molly... I forgot about that! Bloody hell. Ok, on it! Will try for this week.
Delete