Invictor MkII

Captain MAGpie's Invictor War Suit

MkII "Bad Weather" Conversion

A Games Workshop Invictor Conversion

+ With the link to the 3D print files by cornivius +

Ok ok ok... he isn't glued to the base. I wasn't done... jeez.

We all saw the memes. We all saw the Invictor at the OK Coral drawing his six-shooter and sporting his stetson-hat. We all saw Dreadnought's making fun of him. We all saw the ridicule... the laughter... and the...

...OMG DID YOU SEE THE RULES!!!

Space marines are back baby! Its just a pity they drive a Toyota Prius with baby seat.

That being said... a Prius can be more. A Prius can be... better.

I mean... right???

So I plotted.

Ok, maybe I judged a little as well...

So I asked myself, "Self, how could we make this better?"

Hur hur... that part is a no-brainer. MECHWARRIOR! Everything looks better as a mech!

Seriously. Everything. Even Lego Batman!

Everything is Awesome!!! When you make it into a mech!

.
.
.
Ok ok ok, lets get serious. The tutorial.

The tutorial

1) What you will need for: the template

• The Template (below)
• Cardboard
• Printer (Or a ruler and a lot of time)
• Fine-Point marker

I recommend printing the template on cardboard, scaling it so that the yellow reference block is 25mm (1 inch) when printed out, then cutting the shapes out with a pair of scissors and transferring the shapes to your plasticard with a fine-point marker.

To make life easier, cut all the green sections from 0.5mm Plasticard. The orangey sections are 1.5mm, and the brown sections from 3mm. If you do not have 3mm, just stick 2 x 1.5mm together. Or 3 x 1mm. Or... ok, you get the idea.

Additionally, print and cut a test turret from paper first, and make a paper-craft version just to test for scaling. There is a lot of cutting in this build, so making a fitting or printer scaling mistake will be frustrating. Also, you may "scale" it to your liking at this point, making it either bigger or smaller.

What you will need for the build

• 1 x Primaris Invictor Tactical Warsuit
• 0.5mm flat Styrene Plasticard Sheet
• 1.5mm flat Styrene Plasticard Sheet
• 3mm flat Styrene Plasticard Sheet
• 3.2mm x 6.3mm Styrene Strip
• Putty such as Green Stuff or Milliput (Optional, but I advise using this. So much easier to hide bloopers)
• A VERY sharp hobby knife AND/OR a scribing tool
• A fine-point marker
• Metal Ruler
• Glue (I'll level with you. Use an extra thin solvent type glue here. It just makes life so much simpler. I use Tamiya Extra Thin, and believe me, you will have a hard time convincing me to use anything else. I almost feel that I should be wearing welding goggles when I use this stuff with ABS/Styrene.)
• Sharp Cutters
• Files and sanding paper (Fine)
• Patience and a first aid kit

Step 1 - Template

Print the template onto cardboard and cut it out with scissors or a knife.

Step 2 - Transfer and cut

Transfer the shapes to your plasticard using a fine-point marker, and cut them out using a knife. This is probably the hardest part of this build and requires the most attention.

The build, once cut, is fairly simple. So once everything is cut, the hard part is over!

Step 3 - Build the body and start trimming

You want to build the body at this point, but don't install the chair... or the Marine... Just the shell.
Once the basic shell is built, you want to trim the internals to prepare for the plasticard cockpit to be installed. This will require you to make the side-walls flat.

Observe the red circle... Ok cut everything in it out.

With the correct application of force... anything can be subdued. Or in this case, just cut with hobby cutters and file flat.

Doesn't have to be perfect. Just smooth enough.

Step 4 - Test fit

You will notice a little notch in the right hand panel. Its due to the sensor area on the right side being deeper than the left. Test fit the panels and file where necessary. If you cut them correctly, they will be flush with the under and back walls of the cockpit.

I cant decide! Which one! Halp me!

Step 5 - Fill the gaps

So, on either side of where the cockpit will sit, are holes. Here, I just kinda winged it and used small cut-off pieces if styrene rod. Very little of this will be seen, BUT, it WILL be seen. So don't put too much effort in here, but don't leave it sloppy either.

I Repeat, it WILL be seen.

We are listing to Starboard!

Step 6 - Glue in the outer armour plates

Pretty much just that.

Sad Mech is Sad.

Oh look! Forgeworld goodies in the back :D

Step 7 - Nose-plate

For the front plate, I cut a 1mm and 1.5mm piece to the right size (which I eyeballed... roughly 17mm x 0.7mm ) and glued those in place. I then filled them to the same angle as the body.

Haz a nose. Still sad.

I love you scriber tool. 

Step 8 - Roof plate

The roof plate needs a small bit of trimming. Just the angles piece that protruded into the body under the plate. Cant see it. Gets in the way. Get rid of it.

Carefully snip the tip.

And then file it smooth.

Step 8.5 - Back of the cockpit-Plate

Forgot to take a picture of this. Its a simple square piece that just sticks on to the cockpit area where the seats head-rest would have fitted. This is to close the hole where the marines head would... um, be. You will see it in step 9's pictures.

Step 9 - Shape  inner plates and glue in place

Now, you will notice that I added angles to the inner plates. It was very easy while the plates where still loose. If you want to do this, do this BEFORE you glue em. It wont be so simple once they are glued.

I cut mine straight from 3mm card. If you do not have 3mm, stick thinner ones together to get the desired thickness.
Also, to preserve your sanity and prevent harm to thine self, for 3mm, use a scribing tool.

Yes, have have dabbled in scribing.

Once the angles are filed in, glue the front and roof panels of the cockpit onto the side-panels. You could do this after you glue the panels in as well, to make sure they are the right thickness. My cuts were ok, I glued em before. I did sink those 2 pieces of card slightly inwards to create a bit of definition. Up to you.

They should just stick on flush to the outer plates. Eye-ball them to make sure they are level and don't protrude over the top.

See the piece I forgot to photograph! Yeah, its just a square.

Step 10 - The gaps

Now, you may notice there is a gap under the cockpit where it overlaps. I added a light from a storm-raven there, and stuck some optics on the slopped part of the cockpit. You could also just fill it with a piece of card. I wanted some texture.

Above the cockpit will be 2 holes where the roller-cage gets installed. Use putty to fill those.

Step 11 - Legs

The legs was fairly simple. Simply remove the little noblies on the ball-joints and you can re-pose them anyway you want.
And yes, that applies for the one on the hip-joint as well. Then just stick em on backwards!

3D Print Files by cornivius 

If you have access to a 3D printer or do not quite feel up to the task of cutting the card, cornivius took this project on and created 3D printable files and has kindly provided them for free use on his Thinksverse page. They can be found at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3948761

Step 12 - Paint

And thats that. DREAD simple! (Thanks Jack Bowen. I enjoyed that pun :D )

Hope you enjoyed it!

Captain MAGpie,
Out.